Saturday, October 16, 2010

Lessons Learned

In the almost 6 weeks that I have been in Cambodia I have learned a lot. Lessons about not only culture, but also the meaning and importance of family, listening to your intuition, the strength of love and friendship, true compassion and humility. As I reflect on my time here I am grateful for this experience. Although I will not be staying as long as planned, I feel I have grown leaps and bounds, made new friends and memories that will last forever.

I started making a list of things I have learned in an effort to not forget. Some are cultural tips, other about life in general and could be applied to many situations and different parts of the world, and maybe some that are uniquely Cambodian. So here it is.... lessons learned!

1) Just when you think you cannot sweat anymore than is humanly possible, you sweat more! Sweating to the point of soaking wet is something I got used to in my time here.

2) "same same, but different." I swear this should be Cambodia's national motto. Many words are the same, but have different meanings.

3) Everyone thinks I from Europe. Not many Americans travel here as it is so far from the States.

4) Everyone thinks I have blonde hair which my hair stylist back home would be impressed with as he has told me the same thing. I am the darkest shade of blonde there is. I'm sure Matt would agree sometimes ;)

5) My family is the most amazing group of people in the world (at least my world). They have been so supportive, loving, and compassionate throughout this trip and really there for me during some extremely rough times. I am truly blessed and so very appreciative!

6) No matter how much you think you  have prepared, you are never fully "prepared." This is true no matter where you are I guess. I guess the one thing you can prepare for is to have to wing it!

7) Sometimes things are shown to you in ways you never expected nor imagined. Not all will be what you want, but all will be what you need whether it is "good,"  "bad," or indifferent.

8) White skin is highly regarded here in Cambodia. There are skin whitening creams and treatments everywhere! White skin is a symbol of higher class in that you don't have to work outdoors (in the fields) therefore you have lighter skin. The darker your skin, the more you have to work outdoors in the sweltering sun and thus the very dark skin. So funny that Americans put great emphasis on being tan as it symbolizes youth, beauty, and wealth.

9) Cold showers feel amazing after a day in the 90*+ weather with 100% humidity.

10) All market vendors have "special price, special discount" for me.... and every other tourist!

11) Infants, toddlers, and dogs can balance amazingly well on the front of a moto bike.

12) Cambodians can seriously pack a van (and moto and tuk tuk and every other mode of transportation)! Never seen anything like it in my life!

13) People (well mostly men) urinate anywhere and everywhere right out in front of everyone; on sides of buildings, side of the road, whenever, wherever. Hey you gotta go, you gotta go!

14) I am thankful for being born in the great USA, especially as a woman!

15) I often take my rights and privileges for granted without thinking twice. This trip has really opened my eyes and made me realize I am very fortunate.

16) This experience has been the most enlightening and humbling time of my life.

17) Family is #1!

18) Many religions have things in common. Belief beyond oneself that you should do good, be good to others,and good things will return to you whether it be in this life or another. Honor your ancestors. Show appreciation and gratitude. Respect and honor your elders; care for them as they age; appreciate and learn from their life experiences.

19) Listen to the tuk tuk and moto drivers yelling at you that there is a hellacious rain storm coming. I just thought they were trying to get me to pay them for a ride. They were actually pointing at the sky and telling me to get cover, not wanting to take me anywhere. Caught in a trenchall downpour 5 minutes later- lesson learned!

20) People wear surgical masks here b/c it is so dirty, lots of exhaust and bad smells. Every time I see a surgical mask I think of H1N1!

21) Cambodian rain storms have nothing on Arizona monsoons- way worse!

22) You never truly appreciate Air Con until it goes out in the middle of the night and you can't get it fixed for days!

23) Lady Gaga has been translated in Khmer: Poker Face

24) Some people really do have your back and want the best for you. Others are a complete fraud!

25) I gotten used to eating alone, doing things by myself and I am actually enjoying it. Gives you a certain Confidence!

26) There's nothing like receiving a care package, letter, or card from home! Best feeling! Even emails from home are really exciting to see in your "Inbox."

27) Khmer music videos... where do I start. Karaoke gone very bad!

28) Your ears perk up when you hear someone speaking English without a British accent. There's hope they might too be an American

29) Khmer people as a whole are very friendly, helpful, and gracious.

30) TV shows without commercials are awesome!

31) I didn't know Top Model was in so many countries: America, Britain, Canada. Now why is there no Top Male Model???

32) Honking is very annoying.

33) Saltines and soft pillows are the best!

34) In the words of my tuk tuk driver, I will "never forget Cambodia"

35) I have never prayed so much in my life. It's amazing where you will "find" God. For me it was on the bathroom floor during a horrible bout of food poisoning and many times thereafter.

36) When you really love people and they love you, you can feel their presence with you every moment-especially during the really challenging times, where you are weak and so scared. Those people are with you every second, surrounding you with their love and prayers.

37) Avocado green salad Cambodian style=emergency room and hospital stay. Not good.

38) Everything truly does happen for a reason.

39) Trust your intuition. God gave it to you for a very important reason! Don't try to reason with yourself. Just listen!

40) Life is Beautiful! Life is useful!

Thursday, October 14, 2010

Siem Reap/Angkor! Amazing!

October 4-10th
This week continued the Cambodian National Holiday P' Chum Ben which means Festival of the Dead. It is lasts for 15 days and consists of Cambodians making pilgrimages to wats (temples) to honor their ancestors by giving offerings of money, food, flowers, incense, candles. These offerings are passed through monks. Devout Buddhists are expected to visit seven wats during the holiday. So with the holiday we did not have any work so I decided to travel to Siem Reap and Angkor to see what Cambodians call the "8th wonder of the world" Angkor Wat.


I left Phnom Penh on Thursday October 7th and took a seven hour bus ride to Siem Reap. It was great to get out f the city and see more the beautufil Cambodian countryside and the lush green rice fields and tall sugar cane trees. The bus was only $11! Mekong Express Limousine! Great service. It had air con, you were served water, a snack, and a narrated tour! Great Deal! They even had Khmer karaoke on a TV all the way. That I could have done without, but it is pretty entertaining to watch!


Siem Reap was quite pleasant! Much calmer than Phnom Penh! It felt really good to get away from the large city and see a different city! I arrived at my hotel and immediately felt relaxed! I grabbed a bite to eat and then headed out to the Night Market-the only of it's kind in Cambodian. It was really cool! Very calm and not jammed packed like the Russian Market of Phnom Penh. Vendors let you browse without hassling you, a band played Khmer music as you enter and it is just a really nice environment. I got some fun t shirts, browsed around and then headed back to my hotel. I was spent after the day of traveling and finally being able to let down a bit.  There is thing here in Asia where you can get a "pedicure" of sorts by placing your feet in a tank of fish that eat off your cuticles. It is called Dr. Fish. Well there are those Dr. Fish cuticle eating places everywhere outside of night market!  I saw at least 5 places that have fish tanks with people just chilling getting their cuticles eaten care off. I cut my toe up last week on our apartment gate so I figured it wouldn't be good to stick my feet in that water, but I am really curious about it! If my toe wasn't messed up I think I would consider trying it. I headed back to my hotel, souvenirs in hand, no "pedicure" and ready for a good night's rest. I had scheduled a tour for Angkor on Friday so I was gonna need the rest.


Friday morning my tour guide met me in the hotel lobby and we headed to Angkor. You have to get your picture taken and they put it on your one day pass which you show to enter the multiple wats (temples) that make up Angkor. I should've smiled- not my best pic, haha! First we toured the infamous Angkor Wat! Angkor Wat means "temple that is a city." Wow! What site! It is considered the largest religious site in the world. Being that is was P'Chum Holiday many locals had made their way with gifts for the monks and their ancestors. Very cool sight to see! Khmer culture in full force! it is the largest religious temple in the world! it was built in 1113 and took 37 years to complete. i can't believe men built this structure! amazing! we spent from 8-12:30pm there, walking around and sitting and talking (well the guide talking, me trying to understand and hear him. khmer speak very softly which can be hard when there are 9 million kids running around screaming. I learned a lot about traditional khmer culture, the roles of men and women. thank god i was born a woman in the USA!!! so thankful! he was telling me abut how it is acceptable for khmer men to have many partners, domestic violence against women very common and arranged marriages are still the norm. historically girls do not receive education. that is slowly starting to change. he said they are about 50-70 years behind the US in terms of gender equality issues. I didn't realize that tourism here in siem reap didn't really take off until the late 1990s and they didn't have a university until 2000. crazy! another result of the war and lack of education b/c of the khmer rouge. about only 30% of the population is educated. again- another thing we in the US take for granted, the opportunity to go to school!

Angkor Wat

Ok so I know I always say I can't believe how much I sweat but today took it to a whole new level. literally soaked! I drank 2 liters of water! and i swear it all came out as sweat! Something odd happened as I was touring Angkor Wat. This Korean girl took my picture as I was walking past her which was weird. Apparently western people are highly admired in Asia for their white skin, big eyes, and my guide said my blonde hair. It was odd and a little flattering in a way I guess.

I had lunch by myself outside angkor wat and then we went to angkor thom. got some really cool pictures. we went to bayon and ta prohm- where the trees of the jungle have uprooted temples. I saw the infamous tomb raider tree and got a picture. Now i just need to see the movie! My tour guide was really good and took lots of pictures of me and was fun!

Ta Prohm


bayon

 
The day concluded with a much needed and appreciated shower and dinner at the hotel restaurant. I still can't believe I toured Angkor! So awesome!

Saturday I headed to Artisans D'Angkor. It is a really cool store and site where craftsmen master ancient crafts such as high quality lacquer works, silk paintings, stone and wood carvings. I spent about two hours there! I got a tour of where the crafts are created and then spent about an hour and a half in the store.
craftsman at artisans d'angkor working on a stone elephant carving


I headed back to the hotel for a spa lunch and massage! Oh it felt soo good! Later that evening I headed out to a an Apsara performance. Apsara dancing used to be for Khmer Kings only. Very intricate dancing with beautiful costumes. It was a buffet style dinner and then performance It rained so hard that for good majority of the time you couldn't hear the music! I was a bit bummed but i hope i can catch another performance while I'm in Cambodia. Very beautiful!

Great weekend escape! I didn't want to leave!
angkor in reflection


Tuesday, October 5, 2010

Lost in translation? Perhaps....My first week teaching @ Panha Chiet University!

Monday, Sept.27- Friday Oct. 1, 2010
This week started off a bit different than expected, but we quickly adapted! We had out first HIV Education/Prevention class at Panha Chiet University in Phnom Penh. It was supposed to be 30 students (males only) taught in all English,  with access to a white board. We wanted to have separate classes for the male and female students to help ease the difficulty Khmer culture has when it comes to talking about HIV, specifically when it comes to the sexual transmission of HIV and proper condom use. By separating the class by gender we hoped it would ease some of that tension and encourage the students to ask questions maybe they normally wouldn't in a mixed gender setting.

Monday afternoon we arrived at the University and suddenly learned we would have to quickly adapt our plan. The class was 70 students, a mix of males and females, no whiteboard, and an expectation that we would be using a power point presentation (which we did not have). Thankfully our translator was there because everything we said had to be translated into Khmer. About 3 students of the 70 spoke some English, but besides that I could tell the translation wasn't exactly going as I would have liked. I had to use a microphone which I am sure didn't make it any easier for the students who didn't know English to understand what i was saying. As expected the translator felt uncomfortable saying words related to sex and sexual transmission of HIV. At one point we were standing in front of the class (the translator and I) going back and forth because she refused to tell the class what I was saying about HIV transmission modes because it required "sexual words" which were actually just the anatomical correct names for male and female sex organs and the three types of sex that can transmit HIV. This was incredibly awkward and uncomfortable for everyone involved. Finally I decided to switch to a different topic because I could tell the students were getting restless. We ended up not getting through the material we had planned, but that was ok. I decided to try and lighten the mood of frustration by speaking some Khmer. The students seemed to enjoy it and it broke the ice a little. Some students came up after and asked for my email and were very thankful for having us! It was time to go home and get a powerpoint prepared for the rest for the week. I hate not feeling prepared, but have gotten used to "winging it" as necessary! What a first day!

Tuesday I thought would run much smoother since I had prepared a powerpoint! Well we had another curve ball thrown at us when we arrived for the second class. We were told Monday that we just needed a flash drive with the presentation on it. They forgot to tell us we would have to bring a computer! Lesson learned- never assume! So, we scrambled for about 45 minutes trying to figure out how to insert my flash drive into the projector. No such luck! Finally a student let me borrow his laptop and we were on our way! At least now I could be sure the students could see in writing what I was saying despite if my translator chose to leave anything out. We reviewed the material from Monday's class and tried to get into Tuesday's lesson. We were able to get about halfway through the set lesson plan, but would have to play catch up again Wednesday. I was able to grab the students attention pretty well when I pulled out a condom and said we would be learning the 12 steps of how to use a condom properly! That got some smiles and giggles and lots of attentive faces! Unfortunately we didn't have a demo model to do the demonstration on so I just had to go through the 12 steps individually on the powerpoint. I explained to the students that usually we have an actual fake penis model so we can accurately demonstrate each step, but we did not have one yet. Then i saw everyone pointing at the microphone I was holding and start giggling. They wanted me to do the condom demo on the microphone! Everyone started busting up laughing! I said unfortunately that is not an accurate model so I could not use it! It was pretty funny!

The students had a lot of "what if....." questions when it came to HIV Transmission. They were good questions, but after a while it became clear we could spend an entire day on possible situations that may or may not transmit HIV. I just kept referring back to the 4 body fluids that carry HIV if someone is infected, the 5 open doors that can let the virus into the body and the 4 transmission modes that can introduce HIV into the body. We played an epidemic game which the students seem to enjoy.

The rest of the week went well in terms of teaching the class. The students became more involved and it was great! I tried to use my Khmer as much as possible which was fun too! The one frustration I had was not always knowing what was being said by the students and the translator. I became very frustrated by the end of the course of classes on Friday. There were multiple times the translator would have lengthly conversations with the students, the students would burst out in laughter, I would ask what was being said and the translator just shrugged her shoulders and said to move on with the lesson. Finally on Friday I got really upset and said (in front of the students) to the translator, "I need to know what is being said. I need you to tell me. I need you to translate for me because that is why you are here!" She could tell i was frustrated, but still only gave me a very brief overview of the conversation. I decided to ask one of the students I had come to know over the course and who knew English was what going and he told me. That was the most frustrated I have been in a very long time!

The class ended well. Friday was spent reviewing what we learned throughout the week and also answering  questions they had asked on a survey that was administered Monday. The students wanted a copy of the powerpoint and my contact information so we could stay in touch. I got some pictures with the class and a group of male students who always participated and helped me out. I was exhausted by the end of the week, but so happy to have completed my first class! A very fun, challenging, and enlightening experience. Having to explain HIV in ways I had never imagined I could and really pushing my knowledge of the disease. Week three in Cambodia-check!
Panha Chiet students, my translator and I.

Tuesday, September 28, 2010

Days 12 & 13: Skype date, wine @ VIP MiniMart, Meeting another Mutual Friend

My second weekend in Phnom Penh! This Saturday (9/25/2010) was a relaxful day. It started off with a Skype date with my mom and sister. Cambodia is 14 hours ahead of Bend, OR. So in order for me to talk to people back home it takes some planning (and praying) my internet will work. We talked for about an hour after losing the connection a minimum of 6 times.We worked around it. Thankfully Skype video chat is free! It is really cool to be able to see the people your are calling. It makes it a lot easier being so far away.

After the Skype date I did some laundry and made my way to Gloria Jean's Coffee Shop. I am fastly becoming a regular! So much for me giving up coffee while I am here! Nothing hits the spot like a small, iced, non-fat vanilla latte in 80-100* weather! Delicious!

About an hour later I walked back to the apartment. I go to the coffee shop to get away a bit, journal, enjoy the locals. I also try my freshly learned Khmer on the nice girls who work there. Only problem is when they respond I have no clue what they say! haha! Oh well! I at least want to make an effort to speak their language.

Our friend Melinda from Wat Opt orphanage came to visit this weekend. It was her first time in the city. We walked to the VIP Pho Mini Mart and shared a bottle of wine. Then the four of us went out to dinner at Flavors of India. Once again the food was soo good and we ate way too much! Thankfully we could walk a little bit of it off on the way home. Melinda has traveled to several places so it was cool to hear her share her experiences.

The AC in my room went out in the middle of night (again). Soon a cool, comfortable 75* quickly became an uncomfortable, unable to sleep 86*. Ugh!

Sunday (9/26/2010)
First thing today I told the house owner about the AC going out. It cannot be fixed until Monday so i will just have to sweat it out- literally! Thank god for cold showers and Gloria Jean's iced coffee and air conditioning!

My sister emailed me some great info on Singapore. The girls and I are thinking about taking a trip there if we have a long weekend where we can get away. Very exciting! I am going to try to do as much traveling as possible when I am here. On the list: Angkor Wat (of course), Singapore, Laos, and Vietnam. We will see how many of those I can conquer!

This afternoon I met up with my best friend Kellie's friend Hing Kim. Kellie met her over 4 years ago while she was at the riverside here in Phnom Penh. They have stayed in touch ever since. Kellie is such an awesome person. She helps support Hing Kim and her family. Hing Kim is now 19 years old and has a beautiful 4 month old baby girl Lele. Kellie wanted me to meet Hing Kim and see if there are any schools she is interested in that Kellie can help her get into when she comes here in January. Hing Kim was interested in an English school near her home by the riverside. She was also interested in becoming a hairdresser or tour guide. Her English is good and she is such a pretty girl that with the right education she could go far in the hospitality industry here. We chatted for about 2 hours. Hing Kim lives in a two bedroom home with 8 others- all family members. Since having Lele she hasn't able to work to help support the family or go to school. I am going to try to get some more information on schools that Kellie can help get Hing Kim into. My translator said she might be able to help me too. It was cool to meet another person here that knows someone back home! Great connections! Hing Kim said I can call her and she will show me more sights around the city. I will have to take her up on that!

Hing Kim, Lele, and I.

The day concluded with a dinner with my roommates, Melinda, and some mutual friends of Melinda. Two of the older kids from Wat Opot orphanage were in the city for a yoga retreat so they came to dinner also. It was fun to see them experience something outside of the village and orphanage. There was one boy 17 years old and one girl about 15 or 16 years old I think. Later that night Melinda told me that the boy lost both of his parents to AIDS. He has five brothers and one sister. Before HIV hit his parents, his family was quite well off. They had a house, car, and attended private school. Then when his parents died of AIDS, him and his brothers and sister were orphans. Their extended family has money and the means to take care of them, but has since disowned them. Another example of the stigma associated with AIDS. None of the kids have HIV, but still their extended family refuses to have anything to do with them. Extremely sad. So these kids know what it is like to have a family, parents, good schooling. And now they know how fast all of it can disappear. The boy's oldest brother is studying to be become a nurse because he knows it is a respectable profession and he wants to help his siblings someday. Very inspiring! I am learning so much and I am so grateful!

Monday, September 27, 2010

Day 11: Meeting with KANHNA & Meta House Documentaries

Today we met with the director of KANHNHA. It is an NGO that works with men who have sex with men (MSM), lesbians, and transgender men. He would like me to review his programs and see if there is some way I could help the organization. He was very soft spoken and his English was difficult to understand to I think I lost a bit in translation. I know the NGO does HIV outreach work and testing. He will email us information and then I will be able to get a better grasp on where I might be of assistance. Teaching his staff to be trainers and helping to review proposals are things I may work on with this NGO. We will also schedule a time for me go to visit their organization which is about 45 minutes outside of Phnom Penh. The director was saying maybe I could go out and work there a few times a month. We will see!

Later in the evening Molly and I went to the Meta House. Kate had her English tutoring class so she couldn't join us. Meta  House is the German Cambodian Cultural Center. They were showing two documentaries on the sex trade of Cambodia. The first film was called "The Virginity Trade." It was about how a girl's virginity is of great value in Khmer culture. If a girl loses her virginity before marriage she it considered useless to her family and cannot be married off. She basically has no value to her family if she is not a virgin at the time of marriage. There is a belief among Asian men that having sex with a virgin girl will bring them luck, good health, great skin, and many other health benefits. Therefore, men will pay a high price to have sex with a virgin- in some cases up to $1000. Poverty is so rampant here in Cambodia that parents will sell their female children into the sex trade for money to help the family survive. A virgin is guaranteed to make the family a lot of money. Because of this, girls are bought and sold like a commodity. And the ages of the girls when they are first sold can be very young- 12 years old to even younger to ensure the girl is a virgin. Several girls featured in the film sold their virginity to help their family survive; to send younger siblings to school; to help pay for sick or dying parents. The man who buys the virgin pays the $1000 and then he takes her and has sex with her for up to one week. If the girl refuses, she is often beaten and horribly abused. Sex before marriage for a girl brings shame to her family. So once a girl is "tainted" she has no worth in Khmer culture and pretty much is stuck in the sex trade as a prostitute. After a girl is sold for her virginity, the price charged to have sex with her goes down significantly. Soon it can be she only makes $1-$2 per customer. The girl acquires a debt once she is sold and it is hard for her to ever make enough money to pay off the debt, make money for her family, and also survive. It is a vicious cycle with what seems like no way out. One girl had been raped at 16 years old and then forced to work as prostitute. In one year she had been forced to have sex with at least 700 men! 700! Unbelievable!

I learned that there are approximately over 200,000 sex workers in Cambodia- half of which have HIV/AIDS! Cambodia has one of the highest rates of HIV in Asia! The sex trade is a huge reason why the HIV rates are so high. Western men only account for about 30% of the people that utilize sex workers so mostly it is local men. In Khmer culture it is accepted (and almost expected) that a man will have many partners before marriage and continue to have other sex partners once married, including prostitutes.

There were interviews with men who have sex with prostitutes. It was sickening to hear them talk about having sex with really young girls, even gang raping girls- beating them when they refused to do something the men wanted. These men were so nonchalant about what they were doing. It is obvious they do not feel bad for what they do nor think it is wrong to treat another human being as a commodity. These girls and women are literally things to be bought, sold, and thrown away. Inhumane to say the least.

The second film was called "The Girls Of Phnom Penh." This film featured three young girls ages 16 and 17 who work as prostitutes in the city. Two of the girls sold their virginity to get money to help their mothers who were very sick and dying of cancer. They wanted to help pay for their mothers' medications and their virginity was the only thing they had of value to sell. Two girls had babies and one became pregnant again during filming. It showed their struggles to make money to help pay their "debt" to the person who sold their virginity, pay rent, send money home to the family, and then money to eat which often times they went for days without food because they had no money. A local NGO comes out every 3 months to test the girls for HIV. The girls seemed very aware of HIV and knew that they needed to use condoms with customers to protect themselves. Still they had babies so obviously condom use was not consistent. The girl who got pregnant during filming decided to abort because she couldn't afford the baby she already has. That was hard to watch. The girls had dreams of getting out of the sex trade and becoming hairdressers and finding men who would love them and marry them despite their past. At the end of the film (in the credits) it said the film crew fund raised enough money to get all 3 girls into beauty school, thus saving them from the sex trade! Upon release of this documentary in 2008 (under pressure from the US) Cambodia implemented anti-trafficking and prostitution laws. Unfortunately this back fired, making the sex trade go further underground. Also these laws made it unlikely that sex workers carry condoms because if caught with one a prostitute can face high fines and jail. This is of great concern when it comes to the spread of HIV since half of all sex workers here are infected and usually die of AIDS before age 30.

A lot to take in, but essential to know especially when it comes to HIV in Cambodia. These are great documentaries! If you have the chance I would highly recommend them.

Molly and I came home, had some wine with Kate and called it a night. I called my dad from Skype and filled him in on my adventures thus far. It's been a full first 2 weeks (well almost 2 weeks).

Friday, September 24, 2010

Day 11: Silence=Infection, Lucky SuperMarket, School for drop out youth

This morning was a bit frustrating for me, but I am trying really hard to be understanding. After our Khmer lesson, our in country coordinator was reading through the HIV teaching manual, as she will have to interpret for us with classes where English is not fluent for the participants. She said that in Khmer culture it is not appropriate for people, especially women, to talk about sex or say sexual words. The sexual words she was referring to were the proper, appropriate and medically accurate names for female and male sex organs. She said people here just don't talk about it and that we will make people very uncomfortable if we say those words. We tried to explain to her that there is no other way to educate people on HIV, transmission and prevention without talking about anatomy. Sex is the main way HIV is spread. There is just no way around talking about it if we are here to do HIV education. I explained to her we use those words not be to crude at all. The words are the appropriate ones, not slang. Kate also explained that the reason HIV spreads is because people don't talk about it-  they don't talk about sex, let alone safer sex. That is why we are here. Silence equals infection. People may be uncomfortable for 2 hours a day for 5 days while in the class, but we would rather have them be uncomfortable for a few hours and know how to protect themselves against HIV versus not know and get infected! I felt myself getting really upset trying to explain why the sex discussion is so important. So I thought of my mom and Matt and how they would handle this. They would ask how could we make it more comfortable for people? What can we do to make it better, easier for people? I took a deep breath and did just that. I asked her what can we do so people will be more comfortable. She suggested separating the boys and girls- doing two separate classes. That way the girls will feel more comfortable asking questions without fear of teasing from the boys. We came to a solution! I also suggested making a "disclaimer" at the beginning of the class that this topic may be uncomfortable and we will be discussing things most Cambodians don't, but it is very important we talk about sex and how it relates to HIV. Also say that we will be using the proper terms for body parts. This is not to offend anymore or be crude. It is to provide accurate information. I do that at home in my job so it only makes sense we would do it here. She really liked that idea. We were able to come to compromise! I chalked it up to another cultural learning experience.

After that exhausting exchange we went to lunch and I visited the Lucky SuperMarket for the first time. It is isn't too far from the apartment so I can do some grocery shopping there.

Later in the afternoon we had a meeting with the director of a boarding school for drop out youth. It is a school where youth who have previously dropped out of school can come and get education, life skills training, and build character. The kids pay only for their food and the rest the program takes care of everything else. They live at the compound, which is about 45 minutes outside of Phnom Penh. To have a facility in the city is just too expensive. The school is trying to be totally self sufficient. The kids built the dorms and all the facilities there. They cook their own food, do their own cleaning, and have chores. The program wants to instill character and responsibility. Right now the education topics include accounting, English, motivation, and computer skills. It is a two year program and the kids are only allowed to go back home once every six months. After the program many go onto work in hotels or the hospitality industry. The director was very interested in us coming in to do HIV education, Healthy Relationships, and Communication. The kids also would love to practice their English with a native speaker. They are not allowed to speak Khmer at all because the program really wants them to be proficient at English. He wants us to come visit the school next week which would be really cool! I really hope this works out because I would love to teach these kids! At home i always enjoyed teaching in the alternative schools. The kids are just so much more open and ask really good questions. They have more life experience. These kids are at a greater risk for HIV, thus why we should be working with them.

We had a relaxing evening in. We were going to go to a documentary screening but Molly is fighting a bad cold so we decided not to go. Maybe tomorrow night hopefully!

Day 10: Taylor Swift, Fa, Coconut Juice, Meeting with Trade Union Rep

Days are going by fast! Today started as usual-Khmer language and culture lesson. After, I continued to work on the HIV teaching manual we will be using once we start our classes. I also created some writing exercises related to the HIV material for the students so they can practice their English writing skills.

For lunch I headed back to the VIP Mini Mart for some Fa (Vietnamese broth and noodles). Taylor Swift music videos were on once again and on repeat! By the time I leave here I think I may know her songs better than she does! Hahaha! During lunch I was reading one of the local newspapers. There was an article about same sex marriages. Like the US, they are not legal here in Cambodia yet. It was interesting though because there was a side story on a female couple that was able to marry recently. It was ok for the females to marry each other because they both had children from previous relationships with men. The reason the government gave for not allowing male same sex marriage is that male marriage cannot create children. Interesting. I have seen several children that are in orphanages and could use parents. Lack of children is not a problem here. Oh the morals.... I did see an ad for Cambodian PRIDE which surprised me a little. Made me glad there are some progressive movements happening here in terms of  equality for same sex couples!

I walked back to the apartment and continued the work on the teaching manual. In the late afternoon we met with a woman who works for the Trade Union. She is a rep for the factory workers and provides them education. We met with her to discuss the possibility of doing our HIV education with the factory workers as they have little education and access to information. I learned that factory workers here make only $55/month! I was shocked! They work Monday to Friday, 8am-5pm, sometimes overtime with no pay.  Just last week the factory workers went on strike demanding higher wages. They were asking for at least $95/month. My in country coordinator told me that is just not realistic (for the factory workers to get that much a salary increase) and they most likely will not get it. So pretty much they make $3/day. How does anyone live off of that, let alone support a family? Astounding! We may be able to do some short classes on the basics of HIV and maybe general health. Those classes may start in mid October. Our meeting was at the Khmer Kitchen because it is easy to get to. I ordered coconut juice and it came in an actual coconut! They just cut an opening for a straw! I got a picture of course! It was good!


That evening Molly, Kate, and I went walking around for a bit, checking out the local clothing stores. Then we headed to dinner at an Indian Restaurant. Eating at a restaurant here is so different from home. They give you as much time as you like. You have to ask to order & ask for the check. Not like at home where people are trying to turn tables to make more money. It is nice here! Much more relaxed in that aspect.

Matt called as we were leaving the restaurant! It was really nice to hear his voice! The women here who see his picture always say how handsome he is! So fit and good lucking! I'm proud! They say if something happens to me they will go to the US and "take care of him." Haha! It was a really nice way to end my day! Now if only I could sleep....

Wednesday, September 22, 2010

Days 8 and 9: Wat Phnom, US Embassy, Royal Palace and Tutti Frutti!

Day 8: Today was very packed full with cultural learning! The day started off as normal with a Khmer language lesson. After, Srey Aun and I headed to the Royal Palace. It was my second attempt at visiting the palace as the first time it was closed to visitors because the Ambassador of India was visiting. Wells turns out it was closed again, but would re-open in the afternoon. So Srey Aun and I took a walk along the Riverside and made our way to the post office so I could mail some postcards and letters. Then we headed to Wat Phnom- the legendary only "hill" in Phnom Penh. This is place where people come to pray for good luck at the pagoda (temple) and make offerings to Buddha in the form of money, gifts, candles, or food. Once people have received their wish they return to make an offering of thanks. It is also a place to pray for loved ones who have died. Wat Phnom is a very busy place! Lots of tourists, beggars, vendors, sex workers, and one poor elephant you can pay $1 to feed bananas. And of course as an American tourist I totally bought into it and paid the dollar and got some pics with the elephant. At the pagoda I learned some more about Buddhism and it's basic teachings. Meditation is a big part of Buddhism and is about calming your mind, which then will calm your body.

After touring Wat Phnom, we headed to the US Embassy which was right across the street. I needed to update my address here. It took a while to get in, but once I was in it didn't take more than 15 minutes which was awesome. I met some fellow Americans as I waited outside. They were living in Siem Reap which is about 6 hours from Phnom Penh. They were in Cambodia teaching English. However, they came here with the impression that they would be assisting an English teacher. Turns out they are the English teachers and no one in their village speaks English! Made me appreciate my translator and where I live even more!

With my address changed, we headed back to Wat Phnom so tour the museum on site. Most of the displays were in Khmer so I couldn't understand what they said. I tried to get the jist of it from the photos. Then we headed to get some lunch. It was my first real meal in about 4 days since my stomach issues started. We went to FCC- an American style restaurant on the waterfront that caters to journalists. It was more expensive than regular Khmer food. I had fried rice, being careful not to eat too much on my delicate stomach.

After lunch we attempted the Royal Palace one more time and achieved success! It was open to visitors. The king was not home unfortunately. Inside the gates holds beautiful lush gardens and the infamous Silver Pagoda. The floor is covered with more than 5,000 silver tiles which are covered by rugs to preserve them. There are several Buddhas here along with jewels and several items of Khmer craftsmanship, including artwork and intricate masks used during traditional Khmer performances. Very interesting!

With the Royal Palace under our belt we headed back to the apartment. My roommates and I headed out to dinner at the VIP Mini Mart just down the block. We had some Fa (a Vietnamese soup with broth, vegetables, and noodles). It was really good and the portion was huge for the price- only $2.50! The teens who work there are funny. They constantly have Taylor Swift and Justin Bieber music videos playing! And they sing along which is the best part! Very entertaining dinner!

The night concluded with a trip in a tuk tuk to the Riverside to have some Frozen Yogurt at Tutti Frutti- a new frozen yogurt self serve place along the riverside. As we were riding there, I saw all these people in the plazas line dancing! My roommates said one night we would have to go and participate. I am totally game for that!

Tutti Frutti was delicious! It felt so good to have something cold to eat! Average temps here range from high 80s to high 90s with what feels like 100% humidity!

My first night in the city was a blast! And I am thankful that I can eat real food again!

Day 9: Today was spent working on the HIV teaching manual. I added some sections on how to use a condom properly, Healthy Relationships and Emotional Vulnerability. Hopefully they translate well to Khmer language and culture. We got wi-fi in the apartment today which is awesome! There are 4 of us who need internet access at any given point so this will make it so much easier! Usually we go to a local coffee shop to work on the manual because they have wi-fi and it is so much quieter. Construction is going on right across the street from us. It is really loud and makes it impossible to concentrate and work. They start at 7am and end around 6pm- seven days a week! Kate (one of my roommates and the assistant coordinator) is working really hard on getting our work placements for next week. Sounds like we might start teaching an HIV class in a university come next week.

Day 7: My most significant day here yet!

Today was amazing! Starting to feel better and now have the energy to leave the apartment. Yesterday my in country coordinator found the taxi driver who knows how to get to AOA. Well let me back up. Before I left the US I learned a co worker of mine adopted a baby girl from Cambodia in 2002. She gave me the name of the orphanage and the nanny who cared for the baby girl the first 7 months of her life. She gave me photos of her daughter now and asked if there was any way I could find the orphanage and deliver the photos to the nanny. She also gave me the name of the hotel she stayed at in Phnom Penh and the name of a taxi driver who worked at the hotel who knew the location of the orphanage. When I arrived in Cambodia i started to search for the orphanage on-line, but couldn't find an address or a phone number. I was worried that maybe it had closed. I spoke with my in country coordinator Srey Aun about the orphange and how important it was to find it, the nanny, and the taxi driver who knew how to get there. A few days later, Srey Aun had tracked down the taxi driver and got his phone number. He no longer worked at the hotel, but people there knew how to reach him. Srey Aun and I called him. He still is a taxi driver, but is no longer employed with the hotel at which my co worker had told me about. He spoke English which was so awesome! He remembered the orphange and we arranged for him to take there. OK- so now you have the back story.

Today was the day! I met up with the taxi driver, Sothea. He had not been to the orphanage since 2002 or 2003, he couldn't remember exactly when the last time was. It was outside the city about an hour or so. We finally found it after asking a few villagers since it had been so long since he went there last. When we arrived the gate was locked and my heart just dropped! I had finally found the place and now we couldn't get in! And there was no way to let the people know we were coming to visit. Thankfully a family that lived next door told us how to get in! People are so helpful here I am amazed! We made our way down the dirt road. It was awesome that Sothea knew Khmer. I had my in coordinator write a letter in Khmer explaining who I was looking for and why just in case I needed it. There were still kids there, but they were older- probably between 7 and 10 years old. There was one little one, maybe 2 years old. The nanny, Chom was not there- she was in the city (Phnom Penh). Turns out she no longer worked there. The orphanage had to lay people off because of the economy and restricitions on adoptions from Cambodia. A woman who worked there had a phone number to reach Chom. After a few attempts we located Chom! Sothea spoke to her on the phone. He said he knew where she was in the city and he could take me there. I thanked the woman at the orphanage who helped us and we headed back into the city. On the ride into the city I asked Sothea how kids got to the orphanage. He said the poverty is so bad in Cambodia that people cannot afford their children. When this happens they just drop them alongside the main road that leads to the orphanage and just leave them there. Someone then brings them to the orphanage. Or mothers will give birth at a hospital and just leave the baby there because they cannot afford to take care of it. When this happens the orphanage is contacted. An ad is put out in a newspaper with a picture of the baby asking the parents to come claim it. If no one claims the baby, it is sent to the orphanage. I simply cannot imagine dropping a child off in the middle of the countryside. Nor can i imagine leaving a baby at a hospital after giving birth never to know what happens to him or her. Then again I have been extremely blessed to be born in the United States to a family who could afford to give me all the necessities of life and then some. I have never experienced extreme poverty first-hand other than what I have seen in developing countries. I am so grateful! Everyone is definitely not born equal or with the same opportunities.

Chom (the nanny) now works at a hotel that is run by the same person that owns the orphanage. We pulled into the hotel and Chom came out to meet us. She was so happy! She had big tears in eyes. She had a small photo album with her and she showed me pictures of my co worker and the baby she adopted!  She remembered my co worker and the baby. It was amazing to see someone here holding pictures of someone I know back home! I gave her the photos I was sent with. She was so thankful and just kept saying "Or-Kuhn" which is Khmer for thank you. She asked how the girl and my co worker were doing. I said everyone is very well and wished her well too. My heart was so full! It meant so much to her! I just kept thinking how amazing it is how people so far away from each other can have a connection like the one i was experiencing. The quote, "Life is beautiful, life is useful" from the Dhali Lama just kept running through my head. I couldn't wait to email my co worker! We just kinda stood there for a moment. I told her it was honor to meet her and thanked her for meeting with me. She gave me her phone number and I asked that I give it to my co worker in the event she no longer works for the orphanage or the hotel. I said I would give it to her.
I gave her hug and then she just held my arm for a moment and we said goodbye. I waved to her as we pulled away in the taxi. As we drove away I could see the tears in her eyes. Tears of happiness and gratitude. It was amazing. I tear up just thinking about it and while writing this. My heart just feels full! I am so glad I could do that for my co worker and Chom. I got a picture with Chom and emailed it to my co worker with the note about my meeting. The response I got back was amazing. I learned of how hard the last day of the adoption was for everyone involved, especially Chom. I was thankful to be able to be a small part in a very meaningful experience. It felt like maybe now there was a sense of peace obtained for all involved. Chom now had photos to show the baby she cared for was in a much better place with a great life and an amazing family that would provide her everything that Cambodia could not. My co worker was able to reconnect with the woman who has been such an intrigual part in making their dreams of parents come true.
Today was the significant day here! It was definitely meant to be that I came to Cambodia!
Chom and I

Monday, September 20, 2010

Days 4, 5, 6: Learning Khmer, Child Safe Network, HIV Manual Creation

The weekdays begin with an hour long Khmer language lesson. Sometimes this language is a bit yep (difficult in Khmer). They have pronouncations that don't exist in english and also many of the same words mean different. It is coming to me slowly but surely. Also they leave off endings of words which makes it difficult too. I just need lots of repeatition and i will be ok.
After the language lesson we headed to Child Safe Network to learn about their program. They work with organizations, taxis, tuk tuk drivers, hotels, and individuals to educate on street kids in an effort to keep them safe from child labor, sex trafficking, prostitution, etc. It was just an introduction to the organization, but I learned a lot like there are anywhere from 10,000 to 14,000 street kids in Phnom Penh, over 20,000 throughout Cambodia. Some kids live and work on streets, selling books, flowers, other goods to tourists. Some kids work on the street and then go back home at night. All of the money they make they don't get it to keep. Often it goes back to their parents. We are highly discourgaed from buying anything from these kids as it supports them doing this sort of thing instead of going to school and learning life skills and a trade. If we want to help them the best way is to support and donate to causes that help them, like Child Safe or organizations that have been trained by the organization.
The afternoon was spent creating the HIV/AIDS training manual we will use when we teach. It was cool to be able to use so much from my job and apply it here. We are trying to make it as simple and interactive as possible.
One new thing I learned on Cambodia today is that they really like white skin. It is a sign of upper class as it symbolizes not having to work out in the fields in the sun. Therefore, Westerners are admired for their light skin color. I have seen places that offer skin bleaching here and now it makes sense. It's funny how back home tan skin is admired and sought after and here it is the exact opposite!

Days 5 and 6: Not feeling so good. All the great food has caught up with me and I am now sick. Thankfully I have some Cipro to knock it out! Khmer language lesson in the morning and then we continued our work on the HIV manual. In the later afternoon I walked to the market just down from our apartment and bought some apples on my own! I was very proud of myself. It was a bit scary but everything new always is. As i was buying the apples a beggar woman came up to me. She was so thin and had bloody hands. I couldn't understand her, but I just wondered what happened to her in her life to get her to this point.
My AC in my room went out last night which made it impossible to sleep in a room that is 85*. The electricity went out which I learned happens all the time here. thankfully the power was turned back on but my AC was shot! I was more worried about the stuff in the frig than anything.
My mom called Saturday morning. It was so good to hear her voice. There is just something about your mom that just gets to you and I lost it! I started crying once I heard her voice. Especially with being sick and adjusting to a new place, I guess i just was overwhelmed. It was so good to talk to her! I felt so much better after I got off the phone with her!
I just laid low the rest of the day b/c I still wasn't feeling good. I watched some serious Canada's Next Top Model and Britain's Next Top Model! My sister would be so proud! It was a nice relaxful day!

Day 3: Wat Opot Orphanage

Today was enlightenting! We traveled out to Wat Opot Orphanage. It is about an hour outside Phnom Penh in the country side. This land is so beautiful, more so outside of the major city. All of the kids at this orphanage are living with HIV/AIDS or their parents died of the disease and there is no one to take care of them. This was my first expose to the youngest victims of the HIV/AIDS pandemic. I felt choked up the whole time i was there. We were greeted by several children ranging in age from 2 to 15 years old at least. My co-volunteers had been there before so they knew some of the kids. the orphanage is helped by Partners in Compassion. The kids receive HIV medication, education and life skills. There were two girls that had just arrived the day before. One was probably about 8 years, her younger sister just 2 years old. Their mom had dies of AIDS just 5 days earlier. The staff knew the older girl had been selling flowers on the streets of Phnom Penh. She was quite comfortable with adults which made the staff wonder how comfortable she was with Western Men. Lots of young girls here are forced into prostitution at  a very young age. That too makes my stomach turn! She was very friendly and followed us around most of the time we were there. Then there was this adorable little boy and held my hand and hung out with me at least half of the entire day. i think he was about 3 or 4 years old. He was obsessed with my digital watch and kept on pushing the buttons! It came to the point of where i had to take it off when he wasn't looking. He too has HIV, not sure if he has AIDS. He had a bad fungal infection on his head- one of many infections that HIV can cause. He was very sweet! He had bowed legs when he was brought to the orphanage because his grandma constantly carried him around on her back since the time he was born so his legs never formed correctly. He couldn't walk when he arrived at Wat Opot. He now can walk and his legs are straightening out.
One of many reasons this orphanage is so important is that people with HIV/AIDS in Cambodia are shunned by the community. People do not understand how the disease is spread (or more importantly not spread) so fear is great. People and children living with HIV are abandoned. Wat Opot is trying to educate the community on the disease and that people cannot contract it from casual contact or caring for someone living with the virus. Wat Opot used to be a place for people with AIDS to come to die. Now kids there are living with the infetion thanks to medications. There is even a crematorian on site because so many people used to die there.
We enjoyed an iced coffee at the coffee shop on site and a meal of Spaghetti cambodian style- very good. We visited with the staff and other volunteer working there to see how we may be able to help while we are here. I hope I get the chance to go back out there and work with the kids and the local villagers to do some education! The kids know english and are very forgiving when it comes to us learning Khmer.
It was good for me to see a different side of the HIV/AIDS pandemic. That is one of many reasons I wanted to come here- to get a different perspective and see how I can help. The kids are so happy and it is inspiring! Really makes you think about what is important in life. The relationships you build and nuture are so important. Seeing people as people, not as a disease, poverty afflication, needy, etc. And always helping those less fortunate than you and in turn they can help others.

Day 2: National Museum and Ministry of Education

Day 2 was spent at the National Museum. I learned a lot about the history of Cambodia and took some fun pictures in traditional Khmer attire. The school children visiting seemed to get a kick out me in my outfits! It was fun. I am learning about Buddahism as it is one the major religions here. I participated in a traditional prayer to the Buddah and had a little prayer of my own. That I shall keep to myself ;) In the museum I also found a traditional cure for gonorrhea- got a pic of course!
After the museum we went to a great restaurant called Friends. It is run by an NGO (non government agency) that does outreach to street kids. The restaurant helps the kids learn the vocational skills of hospitality services and the kids are the service staff. It is a great program! And the food was really good too! After lunch we visited a shop run by the Friends organization. All proceeds go to the program. I picked up a few shirts and gifts for home. All the jewelry, purses, etc. are made by the kids too which is really cool. It's good to know your money goes to a useful cause.
My volunteer program is still starting up. We had a meeting with the Minister of Education to see if there were things we could work with him on. However, the tasks are too large and just not feasible for us as most of us will only be here a total of 3 months. It was great to meet him and make that connection. I am constantly learning how the Khmer Rouge still affects life today in Cambodia. For example, they destroyed all of the books, literature, etc. that is the basis of education. Therefore everything had to be started anew after the Rouge was pushed out. It reminds me of a book I read in high school where people were so afraid of the educated that all books were destroyed. I cannot recall the name- something to do with The Phoenix I think. Another full day of learning! I love it!

Sunday, September 19, 2010

My first attempt at a blog!

So here it goes! I have never blogged before so this is my maiden voyage! I want to share with everyone my expereinces in Cambodia and this will be the easiet way!
I have now been in Phnom Penh a day over week. I have seen a lot and learned so much! It is a beautiful place with a tragic history that is slowly recovering. My first week here I visited S21 (also known as the place where the Khmer Rouge tortured and killed many Khmer people, most notable intellectuals, woman, children- anyone they considered a threat). It was a school that had been converted into a prison. There was still blood on the floor which was amazing being that these horrific things occured back from 1974-1979. The pictures of the babies and the children got to me the most.
After the prison we visited the Killing Fields. This is where Khmer people were taken after the prison (if they survivied that long) and were killed. I cannot wrap my brain around what happened at this place. There is a huge memorial which holds the skulls and bones that have been recovered in the mass graves. Not all the graves have been excavated yet so there are still remains left to be uncovered. the hardest was seeing the tree where they would kill children. They would hold the children and babies by the feet and smash their heads and bodies against the tree. Then they would throw them in a mass grave beside the tree.Absolutely horrific!
Quite a first day in Cambodia! As hard as it was to see these things it is necessary so they never occur again and the people lost are not forgotten!
Have to go for now. Will write on Day 2 soon!